In The Land of Daasanach Tribe
Omo riverbank, Ethiopia
Why Visit Omo Valley in Ethiopia?
Ever since I turned 7 and was able to read travel magazines, I start dreaming one day to be just like Indiana Jones and visit any tribe. Today most of them are already assimilated by globalization. However, there are few tribes living outside of the modern world as we know it.
Around the beginning of January 2014 I read an article about the construction of “Gilgel Gibe III Dam” in Omo Valley, Ethiopia i realized how fast the clock is ticking. I had to hurry up if I wanted to learn firsthand more about the local tribes before they are gone and assimilated by the civilization.
Crossing the river
And there you go on Apr 28th I was on the bench of Omo river accompanied by the team I have built for my expedition. Shortly before the outbreak of the monsoon rainy season in Eastern Africa, we were waiting at the riverbank not far from the small Ethiopia - Kenya border post.
Patience is important. Things happen when they have to happen. It’s hard to impose any strict schedule. And we were waiting, waiting...and waiting...till our boat finally came.
All of us had to be very calm seated inside the tinny boat made of the tree trunk. We had to avoid any unnecessary movements, because in the dark, red, nontransparent Omo river crocodiles reign.
Our boat is with the flow. The opposite riverbank is very steep. Once set foot on it, several Dessanach kids pop up from behind the trees and approached me. All of them were shouting “farenji - farenji”. Fassil - my local guide, explained that this is the word used by most of the lower Omo tribes for a "white foreigner".
This kid ran to the village and bring the news that there is “farenji” coming.
I was amazed by the size of the trees and how tinny all human beings appear next to them. Their roots were massive. Totally speechless...
First contact with the Daasanach tribe
In just a glimpse and I was surrounded by about 150 women and kids. Fassil told me that at this time most of the men are in the bush with the cattle.
Daasanach Girls at Omo Riverbank, Ethiopia
Even though there is a big river and right next to it a small forest with nice shadow, the location of the Daasanach village was half km away, in the middle of the dust field. Being in the Equator, I immediately understood how much the sun can burn.
Once entered the village the tribe’s chief came to greet me. Everyone was looking in surprise at the “farenjy” with funny white skin.
I wanted to photograph Dessanach tribe!
So, I noticed a perfect hill very near the village. I looked into my compass to discover the direction of the sunset light; I’ve selected several daasanach people to be my models. All we need was to wait until 6:00 pm. Only 4 hours time to make contact with the tribe.
I moved back to the small forest because if I had continued to stay directly under the sun, I could turn into roasted meat.
Each step I made was followed by the tribe. Everyone was walking with me. Literally!
In the forest, I was awarded by the breeze...so nice, surrounded by hundreds of Daasanach people. Everyone was extremely curious to learn something about the other. It was a great idea to bring a local translator with me. He helps me to communicate with the tribe and make better connections.
In my conversation with Daassanach I learned interesting facts.
What to do, if a man doesn't have enough cattle in Omo Valley?
He and his friends attack the nearest tribe and steal their cattle. This is the reason for the frequent armed conflicts in Omo valley.
I’ve noticed that some of the warriors carry AK47 and wondered how they got this wapens. Very simple! AK47 is worth 5 caws. Everything in Omo valley is measured in cattle.
Sharing is Everything
Georgi is surrounded by the kids of the Daasanach tribe, Lower Omo Valley, Ethiopia
I also wanted to share something with the Daasanach tribe. Having found in my pocket the trusty cell phone with thousands of pictures from home and my previous around-the-world trips, I start showing those to the little kids. It’s hard to find words to describe, the reaction of everyone. Seems this was the first time in their life to see colorful pictures from remote places.
For each picture, I have explained what it represents. Frankly speaking, it was really challenging to tell them what is snow...For the kids, it was impossible to experience snow on the Equator.
The Value of a Human Life
All of us were having so much fun sharing things about our cultures and lives. Time was really flying and then I realize there are only a few minutes left till sunset. We walked all the way back...half km to the hill I picked. I went to its top, open my tripod, set my camera, open the stand for the light, mounted the flash & softbox, and made a test shot with the help of one of my crew members. Guksa (the driver) was holding the light equipment because there was already strong wind. Fassil helped me select several Daasanach people who agreed to be photographed in exchange for small gifts. So, the girl was standing still, I was behind the camera, Fassil was fighting with the softbox and the wind...I was looking in the camera viewfinder and could see that there are Daasanach people in my frame. Of course, they were curious and this is why they were staying in my view. Anyway, after 3-4 attempts and help from some elders...I had the perfect setup for the picture I had in my head. I was just a button click away from achieving it...and then I hear somebody shouting and screaming. I turn left and what to see. On the dusty ground, there was an old woman laying down. Next to her was the tribe’s chief who was kicking her. He was looking for his AK47. He wanted to kill her...As Fassil later explained, she wanted to be the next to have her picture taken, but...the tribe’s chief wanted to be the next instead of her.
Crazy! The tribe's chief was about to kill his wife just for a picture!
I tried to confront the couple...and promised to make pictures of all of them...together, one by one, just not to kill each other…
At that point in time, Fassil told me that the situation has escalated too much. Obviously, the tribe’s chief was drunk and too violent. The best solution was to live the village immediately.
After I returned to our base camp on the other side of the river, we sat down to chillax with a cold beer. I downloaded the pictures from that day...and was surprised to notice that actually...I have managed to make the shot I have imagined in my head.
Daasanach Girl in Lower Omo Valley, Ethiopia
In case you are curious, here is the girl that almost caused her own death with this picture.